Ocotlán Oaxaca: Your Guide to the Vibrant Friday Market

Located just south of Oaxaca City, Ocotlán de Morelos is a cultural and culinary experience that blends the authentic charm of a pueblo with the chaotic excitement of a tianguis—a vibrant open-air market brimming with color, flavor, and craftsmanship.

Every Friday the Ocotlán market expands to the surrounding streets offering unique local treasures: from artisan knives to unpainted alebrijes, and of course, unforgettable Oaxacan food like barbacoa and empanadas de amarillo.

In this article I’ll describe the unique nature of Ocotlan’s Friday tianguis, including the many specialty items available for sale here. I’ll also cover what to do near Ocotlán Oaxaca and how to get there so that you can visit the Friday market yourself.

A close up of a woman embroidering a white piece of fabric with green vines and bright yellow and red flowers at the Ocotlan Market in Oaxaca.

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Ocotlán Market: A Friday Tradition

Every Friday in Ocotlán, the streets fill with the rhythmic sounds of vendors and locals exchanging goods and greetings.

The tianguis stalls spread out in every direction from the main Ocotlán market. Stretching down one direction you’ll see curved lines of street food stalls, aguas frescas, roasting chickens, tacos, empanadas and smoking meats.

Down the opposite side you’ll see hand embroidered huipiles, woven tapestries, and stacks of alebrijes-painted and unpainted wooden figures carved in the form of animals-some real and some mythical.

While less hectic than the Abastos or Tlacolula markets, Ocotlán’s market stands out for its unique local treasures and specialty foods.

People walk through the aisles of the Ocotlán Market which are full of products - dried chiles and tortillas. Above hang colorful papel picado decorations.

What to Eat at Ocotlán Market in Oaxaca

The tianguis in Ocotlán is filled with traditional Oaxacan foods. It’s intoxicating to walk down a line of crowded food stalls, feel the heat lift off the comales and inhale the smoky aroma of grilled meats.

My mother and I most recently visited this market when Catholics are meant to abstain from consuming red meat. The Smell of grilled meat, tacos and barbacoa was so hypnotizing that my mother exclaimed “I’m sinning with my thoughts!” And scrambled to look away.

Ocotlán Barbacoa

Even on a hot April day, I couldn’t help but feel drawn to the barbacoa in Ocotlán.

A plate of shredded barbacoa de borrego tacos sit on a colorful Mexican tablecloth.

The meat (traditionally lamb but sometimes beef or goat) is stewed for a long time and is so tender it falls apart. When asking for an order of barbacoa tacos, the pillowy texture of the soft tortillas, and melt-in-your-mouth tenderness of the meat are unmatched. It’s easy to inhale an entire order!

The barbacoa stands are located behind the market, giving you plenty of options to sample this delicious meal. Some stands offer a side of rich broth as well, made from the dripping of the meat and spices.

Empanadas de Amarillo

A Oaxacan street food, empanada amarilla is splayed open to reveal shredded chicken in yellow mole with a green herb.

Another must-try food in Ocotlán is the empanada de amarillo. These hefty corn tortillas stuffed with Oaxaca’s distinct mole amarillo, and often with chicken or beef, make for a hearty bite.

Amarillo mole gets its distinct flavor from chiles, corn masa, and Yerba Santa—an aromatic herb with hints of eucalyptus and anise. The result is a velvety, herbaceous filling that balances the corn tortilla.

La Cocina de Frida

To escape the sun beating down our backs and the frenzy of the tianguis, we tucked into the main Ocotlán Market to eat at the renowned “Cocina de Frida,” named after the famous Frida Kahlo.

In Ocotlán Oaxaca, Beatrice, aka Frida, poses for a picture wearing a colorful apron, necklace, and flowers in her hair.

The whimsy and folkloric aspect of this kitchen evokes the late Mexican artist. The owner, Beatriz, even dresses in a similar fashion: wearing a traditional huipil with fresh flowers tucked into her hair.

You might raise an eyebrow in question if this is a gimmick, but try the sampler plate of moles and salsas and you’ll understand why this kitchen continues to thrive.

For a unique dish try the chiles encuerados made with the spicy, herbaceous and slightly sweet chile de agua and stuffed with almond roasted chicken.

What to Buy at the Friday Market in Ocotlán Oaxaca

The Ocotlan market stands out for its diverse array of goods. As I wandered down branches of this tianguis I was continually surprised by items I rarely see elsewhere. Here are a few of the items to look out for.

Unpainted Alebrijes: This is the only tianguis where you can find these. Unpainted alebrijes are unique because you can give them your own artistic touch.
Leather Goods: As my mother and I looped through street stalls trying to find our way back to the main square, we encountered a number of stalls with beautifully crafted leather goods. Amongst the belts, huaraches, and bags, we saw beautifully crafted leather backpacks in eye-catching colors.
Huipiles: traditional clothing hand embroidered in San Antonino Velasco’s signature style is widely available here. This unique needlework gives the impression that dozens of vivid wildflowers have sprouted across the fabric.

Folded blouses with colorful woven threads depicting flowers, figures, and other designs are stacked on a table at the Ocotlan market in Oaxaca

Woven Baskets: The large woven baskets here, crafted from natural fibers, have become less common in recent years. It’s nice to see artisans preserving this beautiful and functional art in Ocotlán.
Pottery: You can find everything from rustic red clay to glossy black barro negro, as well as hand-painted ceramics.
Rugs & Textiles: From bold geometric designs to narrative weavings that depict local village life.
Hats: A large array of hats crafted in every design, color, and size imaginable. This market is the perfect place to pick up a traditional straw hat to shield you from the sun!
Hammocks: Artfully designed and woven hammocks come in all sorts of fun colorful combinations, and also in more subdued, neutral tones.

The signage of the Ocotlán Market features a black and white graphic mural that depicts a woman frothing a pot of drinking chocolate with baskets of fresh fruits and vegetables on either side of her.

How to Get to the Ocotlán Market from Oaxaca

Getting to Ocotlán is easy and budget-friendly. The most comfortable public transport option is the suburban—a white minivan that departs from the corner of Bustamante and Zaragoza (map).

If you plan to include nearby artisan villages (see next), booking a tour is the best option for a stress-free day trip. Oaxaca Travel Tips recommends Israel, a local tour guide that speaks both English and Spanish. To book, send him a message on Whatsapp or you can connect on Instagram.

Other Places to Visit Near Ocotlán de Morelos

Ocotlán is ideally located for those exploring the artisan corridor south of Oaxaca City. Though it’s tempting to try and see everything in one day, it’s best to slow down and savor the experience.

Here are a few things to visit near Ocotlán, starting with the closest to town and finishing with nearby artisan towns.

A man wearing a cowboy hat walks past the baby blue and gold exterior of the church in Ocotlán Oaxaca.

Dominican Church: This historic building anchors the town center and houses religious art and architecture.
Rodolfo Morales Murals: Found inside the municipal palace, these vivid murals by Ocotlán’s most celebrated painter depict local life with surrealist touches. The murals are best viewed during office hours when the building is open to the public.
Artisan Knives: The knives of Apolinar Aguilar Velasco and his family are renowned in Ocotlán Oaxaca. These hand-forged blades are both functional and artistic
Taller Manos Que Ven: This workshop and school empowers artisans to create exquisite ceramic pieces. Open daily, visits include a free explanation. Although seeing the original artist, José García, in action may require an appointment. A hands-on clay workshop is available for 250 pesos.
San Bartolo Coyotepec: Renowned for its black pottery, an elegant and uniquely Oaxacan ceramic tradition.
San Martín Tilcajete: The colorful capital of alebrijes, where some studios are open to the public and tours often include demonstrations.
Santo Tomás Jalieza: A town famous for its textiles, especially backstrap-loom woven belts and table runners.

Final Thoughts on Ocotlán de Morelos

Ocotlán de Morelos is more than a day trip—it’s an immersion into the living heart of Oaxacan culture. The Friday market, with its artisan offerings, regional cuisine, and welcoming atmosphere, showcases a side of Oaxaca that’s vibrant yet unhurried.

Visiting the Friday Ocotlán Market reminds me of parts of my childhood in Oaxaca de Juarez that have been forgotten due to the city’s rapid growth.

In Ocotlan you will still see farm animals available for purchase at the tianguis, the unpainted alebrijes my mother sometimes bought me as a child, and the giant woven baskets my parents used for laundry and storage.

It’s a bit like exploring the Oaxaca of years past—the one I remember from childhood. Come for the birria, the moles, and the crafts—I hope they make you as happy as they made my inner child.