Christmas in Oaxaca: December Celebrations and Traditions

Christmas in Oaxaca is a magical time filled with unique traditions, colorful parades, and festive celebrations. Having spent two Christmas seasons here, I’ve experienced firsthand the beauty of Oaxaca in December—from nightly posadas to the famous Noche de Rábanos. 

It starts to feel like Navidad en Oaxaca when the calendar changes to December and the city begins to decorate. The walking street from Santo Domingo Church to the Zocalo is lined with Christmas trees and colorful pinatas, while the Zócalo glows with festive lights and bright red poinsettias.

In this guide, I’ll show you how to participate in Oaxaca Christmas celebrations so that you can enjoy the local traditions and spirit of the holiday. I’ve included specialty foods to look out for as well as the Christmas festival in Mitla, a town just outside of Oaxaca. Plus you’ll want to read to the end to learn about all the holiday events in December.

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Christmas in Oaxaca

Oaxaca in December is especially festive, and the Zócalo is the heart of the holiday. Red poinsettias line the walkways, while white string lights decorate the gazebo, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. Throughout the plaza, you’ll find small displays showcasing Oaxaca Christmas traditions, like nativity scenes and piñata-making.

Near the main cathedral, is a grand nativity scene and the largest Christmas tree in the city while holiday performances take place on a large stage throughout the month. You’ll also find fun photo opportunities with various Christmas figures, including not only Santa, but also the Three Wise Men and their camels.

And as you walk along the beautifully decorated trees on the nearby walking street, colorful piñatas, papel picado, and more lights create a festive setting. It’s the perfect spot to get in the holiday spirit while enjoying a hot cup of punch from a nearby street vendor. The entire city feels alive with the joy of Navidad en Oaxaca.

Where to Stay in Oaxaca at Christmas

I recommend staying in or near centro for easy access to activities and celebrations. I’ve listed some of my top recommendations below, all of which are in a central location.

Majagua Boutique Hotel ($$$$) – This adults-only hotel in Oaxaca features large, comfortable rooms with natural light and a rooftop terrace.
La Casa de Pino ($$$) – One bedroom apartments for up to 4 people, each with a living and dining area and private kitchen.
Hotel Las Golondrinas ($$) – Centrally located hotel in a beautiful home featuring lush gardens and rooms with multiple beds.

5 Oaxaca Christmas Traditions to Experience

Oaxaca Christmas traditions blend religious and cultural celebrations that make for a special holiday season. The streets come alive with festive processions and community gatherings that invite both locals and visitors to join in the fun. 

Tip – In Oaxaca, Christmas Day is a family affair. Some of the streets are incredibly quiet, so for your safety in Oaxaca, I recommend taking taxis or Didi unless you’re walking around the very heart of the center. Many businesses are closed, but you will find some restaurants in Oaxaca that offer a special Christmas dinner.

1. Posadas in Oaxaca: December 16th – 24th 

A posada is a re-enactment of Joseph and Mary’s journey to find a place to give birth. Held each night during the nine days leading up to Christmas, they are one of the oldest Christmas traditions in Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico.

I recommend going to a posada at the church in the Jalatlaco neighborhood of Oaxaca. Check their FB page to confirm the dates and time, but they typically start around 6:30 or 7pm.

When I visited a day or two before Christmas, a short religious performance, called a pastorela, took place on the side of the church. Then we gathered for the posada with the pastorela performers, dressed as Joseph, Mary and other religious figures leading the way.

Some of us were given candlelit lanterns and sheets of music lyrics before proceeding through the streets to a designated house. Our posada loosely split into two groups, singing alternate verses of traditional Christmas songs such as Canto Para Pedir Posada (see video below) and Los Peces en el Río.

Once the residents of the house realized we were there for the birth of Jesus, the patio doors opened and we celebrated with ponche and media tortas (bread with beans and cheese).

2. Night of the Radishes – December 23rd

One of the most anticipated Oaxaca Christmas traditions is La Noche de Rábanos. Held only on December 23rd, this unique event dates back to the 1800s when vendors started carving radishes to draw attention to their stands at the Christmas market. 

In 1897 it was declared an official competition. Today, the event draws large crowds to see the carved radish creations which depict Oaxacan life – everything from religious events to La Guelaguetza Festival.

If you’re celebrating Christmas in Oaxaca, this event is a must-see. But to see the radish creations lit up at night, you can expect to stand in line for a couple of hours. Read my guide to the Night of the Radishes in Oaxaca for full details.

3. Las Calendas del Niño Dios: December 24th

For La Noche Buena, or Christmas Eve in Oaxaca, the churches in centro organize a parade, known as a calenda with a distinctive colored lantern to represent each church.

The main focus of the calenda is baby Jesus, who is led by his “godmothers” to the Zócalo, where they circle the square four times before returning to their respective churches. Then the baby Jesus is placed in the manger just in time for the midnight Christmas mass.

To participate in this Oaxaca Christmas tradition, I would choose a church relatively close to the Zocalo and follow the parade. The event usually starts around 8 pm, meeting in the Zocalo around 10 or 11.

4. Christmas Parties – Also Called Posadas

Throughout December, families, friends, and coworkers gather for festive Christmas parties in Oaxaca, also referred to as posadas. These gatherings typically include traditional snacks or dinner, ponche, and the fun of breaking a piñata.

While these parties are a big part of Navidad en Oaxaca, travelers should note that unless you have local connections, it’s not common to be invited to these private celebrations.

5. Food to Try in Oaxaca at Christmas

Oaxaca is a famous foodie destination, so be sure to taste some of these traditional foods from Oaxaca during your visit. But in December, you’ll also find some special treats that are common throughout much of Mexico during the holidays.

First up is Ponche Navideño (Christmas punch), which you can buy from street carts in the city center. This warm, spiced fruit punch has a jamaica base and is flavored with cinnamon and seasonal fruits like rhubarb, apple, and tejocote. As you sip, you can eat the chunks of fruit that settle at the bottom.

Next are buñuelos, a delicious fried dough dessert dusted with sugar and cinnamon. Pair them with a hot cup of Oaxacan chocolate for a perfect holiday treat. In Oaxaca, it’s tradition to smash the small clay plate on the ground after finishing your buñuelo—a fun way to welcome good luck for the new year.

Other Oaxaca Christmas Celebrations

December in Oaxaca is extremely festive, with decorated trees and lights lining the walking street. But here are a few other Christmas celebrations you can attend.

Villa Magica de Mitla

If you’re spending December in Oaxaca with kids or simply love the holiday season, plan to spend an evening in the pueblo mágico of Mitla. 

This small town hosts a festive celebration starting in mid-December that lasts through the first week of January. In the town center, you’ll find a very small ice skating rink (best for kids) and a stage with nightly performances by local bands. 

From there, wander the streets where you’ll find holiday light displays and food vendors. You also don’t want to miss this museum whose patio features a grand tree beautifully decorated with papel picado.

Oaxacan Magic Town

Not to be outdone by Mitla, the Oaxaca City government created its own Navidad en Oaxaca located at Parque Primavera Oaxaqueña (map) on the SW edge of the city. Running from mid-December to January, this event also features an ice rink and food vendors.

Tip – The food looked best from the vendors at the entrance of the park. We ate inside and it was okay. But I recommend checking out both!

The ice rink is slightly larger than the one in Mitla, but I recommend visiting earlier in the day before the ice starts to melt. I love ice skating, but found it a bit tricky with a small stream running through part of the rink!

While entrance to the park and ice skating are free, you’ll need to pick up tickets for a ice skating as you enter the park.

Light Show at Santo Domingo Church

In the night during the holiday season in Oaxaca, the city puts on a light show on the front of Santo Domingo Church. It’s a festive show of lights and a fun way to spend an evening before or after dinner. I believe there are two shows per night.

Markets During Christmas in Oaxaca

There are several pop up markets during the holidays in Oaxaca, many of which you can find in the city center. The main one is located along the walking street, just north of Santo Domingo Church as well as east, between the church and the Botanical Garden. Under these tented areas, you can find artisan crafts as well as specialty Christmas foods.

Oaxaca Christmas Concerts and Events

Several public spaces host Christmas concerts and events in Oaxaca during December. There are several held each afternoon in the Zócalo which are announced via this FB page on the day of. The other spaces that typically hold events include the Macedonia Theater and San Pablo Cultural Center.

Oaxaca in December

While December 12th unofficially marks the beginning of the Christmas season in Mexico, celebrations in Oaxaca start slightly earlier with the Virgin of Juquila. My friend jokingly refers to the first few weeks of December in Oaxaca as the “season of the virgins.” 

This period is filled with religious festivals, street parades, and cohetes—homemade fireworks that explode with a loud bang. December in Oaxaca is loud for most visitors with these noisy rockets going off from dawn into the late night.

Virgen de Juquila: December 8

Oaxaca December celebrations begin with the annual pilgrimage to Santa Catarina Juquila and the shrine of the Virgin of Juquila, known for her healing miracles. The devotion to this saint is so immense that some pilgrims arrive via a multi-day journey by foot from nearby villages while others travel long distances by bus from other states, such as Puebla, Guerrero, and Veracruz.

Virgen de Guadalupe: December 12

The Virgen de Guadalupe appeared to Juan Diego in the 1500s just outside of Mexico City and has become Mexico’s most celebrated saint. This religious holiday is celebrated throughout Mexico, but there is a fun tradition in Oaxaca.

At Templo de la Virgen de Guadalupe on the northern edge of El Llano Park, parents bring their dressed up children for a picture opportunity.

The boys are dressed as Juan Diego – imagine young boys with a mustache, straw hat, and an image of Guadalupe printed on their white clothing. The girls wear traditional clothing with a rebozo (scarf) wrapped around their waist and their hair braided with ribbons.

Outside of the church several photos booths are set up featuring a backdrop of the scene when Guadalupe appeared to Juan Diego – some include a mini waterfall. In addition, the whole park is a festival with food vendors and carnival rides.

Nuestra Señora de la Soledad: December 18

As the protector and patron saint of Oaxaca, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude), is honored with one of the biggest December celebrations in Oaxaca. Festivities start in front of La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (next to Plaza de la Danza) with a lively gathering that leads into one of the longest parades in Oaxaca.

The parade winds through the neighborhoods behind the church, eventually circling back around to the city center. It’s oh so very Oaxacan, with Chinas Oaxaqueñas dancing in their colorful skirts and baskets on their heads.

There are also handmade lanterns of various figures, including the azucenas (lily flowers) that are symbolic in Oaxaca. And then before the parade begins, several floats line up with women dressed as Soledad herself. 

Tip – I recommend that you arrive early to explore the food stalls nearby before the celebrations begin.

FAQ About Christmas in Oaxaca

Final Thoughts: Visiting Oaxaca in December

Oaxaca in December is filled with unique traditions, festive decorations, and lively celebrations that bring the city to life. From the nightly posadas to Noche de Rábanos, you’ll get to witness and participate in the rich cultural traditions that make Navidad en Oaxaca so memorable. 

Whether you’re tasting local foods, exploring holiday markets, or simply enjoying the beautifully decorated Zócalo, Christmas in Oaxaca is a truly special experience.